After feeling sick the past 24 hours … I was feeling little better , but the waves were much smaller and the guys were surfed out … we decided to take it easy . . . we checked some spots , but didn’t really trigger us to surf… I was feeling very weak … still recovering … So we explore around and chill by the beach … Panorama beach !

Walking around Thaghazout …

Open Sesame !

By Hash Point and the fishermen boats…

Cool animal !

Panorama Beach …

Well … I guess I have to leave the shark story for the next Grand Finale !

Horrible night and struggling morning !

The guys were getting ready to one more day of surfing and I was trying to survive the morning… I kept questioning myself : What to do ? Stay here at this stinky and soulless apt or deal with my sickness and maybe … and this maybe was being extremely positive . . . I could surf and enjoy myself ! My options were simple . . . should I go or should I stay ? I packed my stuff and decided to tag together with the guys. . . They were suspicious about my decision, but nevertheless they were happy to have me with them.

We drove north and from the car we could see signs of big swell in the water… “Big Tuesday!” The movement in the road was clear that the day was going to be good… lots of cars with surfboards on top … everybody was charging . . . besides me … who was holding a plastic bag in the front seat grasping for air ! We stopped at Desert point and there were people out already . . . It looked ok , but not as big as we thought would be . The tide was still high and soon would start to go low and our hopes were higher. We drove to Boilers . . .

and …

The waves were good and heavy . . . I wish I have surfed it . . . !

Too heavy and clearly lots of paddling for Kent and Ståle , we drove back to Desert Point !

As I divided my time watching the guys surfing nice waves and throwing up beside the car I continually kept hearing a tractor near by working no stop . . . In my mind I have a idea what they where doing . . . I will explain … To get into the cliffs that overlook Desert Point is necessary to go little off road driving… For some reason that we never found out the authorities don’t like that cars transpass from the road to this area, which is about 100 meters to the cliffs . . . Conclusion . . . during the surfing session and trowing up my guts we were being blocked ! We had to dig our way out . . . I was feeling so horrible that all I could do was to watch the “engineers” digging our way out with help of some locals that also were blocked ! Fun scene ! eh eh eh I remembered even smiling at it !

CLASSIC !

and then finally arrived home … straight to the bathroom … no comments needed . . .

see you next part IV when we MET ” SHARK ” !

On our second day of the trip we knew already where we gonna surf … Desert Point ! After our first day there we were in love with the spot . . . And from there on we always stop there to check the conditions. Since by then we didn’t know the name of the spot, we named it after ourselves … BRAINFREEZE “Surfer’s from BODØ”. This time we were not alone . . . and the crowed grew as the waves keep getting better with the low tide. I have always known that tides influence in waves, but Morocco, the tides means everything. The waves really change for the best or worst very fast. So was the crowed. Anyway, I felt little intimidate with so many good surfers in the water and to stay on the peak was hard. The interval was not constant, but sometimes you could find yourself alone on the peak. As any other sport or activities, after you manage your first good ride you feel confident about yourself… and that was what I needed it . . . I finally found myself alone on the peak and a perfect set came! I studied my position and paddle looking for the best of the set . . . and there she was … like a diamond… shinning… and smiling ! It was a perfect head high peak… Good drop and I found myself looking to this infinite wall of happiness ! It was the longest ride of my life! The wave kept changing speed and giving me time and consistency for at least 100 meters . . . It is a good feeling when you feel your legs tired on the same wave. . . Gosh ! I had a huge smile til next day …

But on the next day . . . as like any love story . . . the skies are not always blue . . . I got the stomach flu ! HELVETE ! During the night I felt so tired that I started having the chills all over my body… And what were chills became a shivering cold long night between trowing up and sleeping. Welcome to HELL ! Not only because I was sick, because sick we all get … I was in hell because next day was going to be the biggest day! I knew that my third day would be … painful …. to watch!

DESERT POINT
photo by Kent Aagnes